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THE RIVIERA MAYA

Playa del Carmen, formerly a tiny fishing village, has quickly grown into one of the most popular tourist destinations on the Mexican Caribbean.

The Riviera Maya is located in the center of Mexico's Yucatan peninsula and famous Mayan Riviera, which begins about 20 miles south of Cancun International Airport and goes to a little fishing village named Punta Allen, on a small peninsula inside a large Biosphere Reserve. It is the perfect base from which to explore the area's unspoiled white sand Caribbean beaches and fascinating archeological and ecological sites.

With a main business area less than a mile long, Playa del Carmen is small but amazingly cosmopolitan, drawing travelers from around the world. In fact, English, Italian, French, and German are heard nearly as often as Spanish. Zoning regulations in Playa prevent high-rises and keep the hotels smaller than those in nearby Cancun, making it ideal for those wanting to escape large crowds.

Adjacent to Playa del Carmen is the upscale 875-acre planned development of Playacar, with its own 18-hole golf course, shopping mall, aviary, large all-inclusive hotels, and private condos which are available for rent.

Just off the Playa del Carmen coast lies Cozumel, the largest island in the Mexican Caribbean. Cozumel is reached by ferry from Playa del Carmen, and by cruise lines from other port cities around the world. A mecca for skin divers, Cozumel is known for a variety of marine attractions.

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Being small is part of Playa del Carmen's charm, but don't worry; you won't get bored. Playa del Carmen is a fun town and visitors can enjoy a wide range of activities. You can drive a 4-wheel ATV through the jungle, mangroves, lakes and down a secluded beach.. You can ferry to Cozumel Island for a snorkeling adventure at the famous Palancar Reef, or rent a catamaran for the day and snorkel on the best reefs in the Caribbean Sea, the second largest in the world. You can climb a Mayan temple, explore a cave, swim in a crystal clear 6-foot-deep cenote (a fresh-water sinkhole), go snorkeling or skin-diving ... and, well, the list goes on!

For more specific details, see Shopping, Water Sports, Eco-Archeological Sites, Museums, and Other Activities below.

SHOPPING

In Playa del Carmen you can shop till you drop! Quinta Avenida (or the Quinta, as it is known), is the

main shopping street in Playa del Carmen. Located one block off the beach, Quinta is open exclusively for pedestrians and is lined with shops selling almost everything imaginable, including art galleries featuring Mexican artists.

The goods sold in Playa del Carmen's shops are from all over Mexico and the world. You'll find a great selection of silver jewelry, bags, shoes and other leather goods, hand crafted artesanía, clothing (especially hand-embroidered), souvenirs and more.

Also, be sure to check out the Plaza Antigua, a complete commercial center in itself, with a pretty little courtyard with lots of trees and flowers, and a little gazebo where you can sit and rest.

Shops are generally open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. with some closing from 2-4 p.m. for siesta. English is spoken, and haggling is expected.

Prices are usually in pesos, but sometimes in U.S. dollars (spelled dolares). Many businesses, including restaurants, don't take credit cards, so you'll want to carry a little cash. There are money-changing houses (casas de cambio) everywhere, plus money machines (ATMs) with a $3,000 peso-a-day limit. Banks do not give cash advances on credit cards in Playa del Carmen. You'll have to go to Cancun or Cozumel for that.

There are supermarkets, deli's, seafood markets, bakeries, fruterías selling fresh produce as well as staples, and of course, Mexican-style grocery stores. If you buy fresh fruit or vegetables, pick up some Microdyne, an anti-bacterial found in most groceries and pharmacies, and some bottled purified water to soak them in, unless you plan to cook them. And in Cancun, you'll even find Wal-Mart and Sam's Club.

Many money-changing houses also have public phone booths, and pay phones requiring phone cards (available at any pharmacy and many grocery stores) are also found outside on sidewalks. The country code for Mexico is (52). The regional area code for the Riviera Maya is (987), and local calls are seven-digit numbers.

Cybercafes and phone/fax/mail shops abound, and stamps (estampillas) are found at pharmacies, as well as the post office on Sunyaxchén Avenue downtown. Contact lens solutions and accessories can be found in pharmacies in Playa del Carmen, Cancun, Cozumel, and most large towns along the Riviera Maya. If you need a refill on medicine, your prescription from home will be honored if you show the bottle to the pharmacist (unless it's a controlled substance). All restaurants, hotels, B&Bs, etc. serve purified water, and bottled purified water is available at any grocery store and most pharmacies.

WATER SPORTS

There are lagoons and cenotes to swim in, as well as the ocean, scuba diving, snorkeling, waterskiing, jet-skiing, windsurfing, kite surfing, wave running, sailing, reef diving, cenote diving, cave diving, fishing, inner

tubing, kayaking, canoeing, and you can even swim with the dolphins if you like!

Equipment is for rent, lessons are available for most activities, and diving certification is available in some resorts and many private dive facilities. FYI, activities such as these are usually guided or attended by bilingual staff.

If you're more of an observer, you can watch the turtles spawn at Akuma in summer, and see dolphins, sea lions, manatees, sting rays, sharks, and more at aquatic parks. Or you can lie on the beach, people-watch, and listen to the strolling mariachis play right on the beach.

ECO-ARCHEOLOGICAL SITES

You won't want to miss Tulum Mayan Ruins and Xel Ha Eco Park. Built on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean, Tulum is the only Mayan walled city. Here you can admire the ruins known as the Castle, the Temple of the Frescoes, the Temple of the Descending God, and other pre-Hispanic buildings. The calm waters of Xel Ha, four interconnected crystal-clear lagoons are home to numerous species of tropical fish. You can go snorkeling in this marvelous natural aquarium, or walk through the shaded paths of the park.

Xcaret, one of the most important and sacred Mayan ceremonial centers and seaports, is.located between Playa del Carmen and Tulum, and has numerous ruin site models. They have also recreated a typical Mayan residence beside the water, which you can swim by to view. Xcaret is an incredible eco-archaelogical park where you can spend a marvelous day.   

Explore the Coba Mayan Ruins and Pac Chen Village. From the ruins of the ancient Mayan city of Coba to the living Mayan community of Pac Chen, a tour takes you though 1,500 years of Mayan history. Climb the highest pyramid ever built by the Mexican Mayan civilization. The ruins are spectacular. Then visit a small Mayan village and swim in their beautiful cenote.

Visit the Chichen Itza Mayan Ruins, considered the best Mayan archeological site. Explore the Mayan pyramid known as the

Castle, the sacred cenote, the Warrior's Temple, the Ball Game Court and the Observatory, which shows us the intelligence and sophistication of the Maya. The Maya were excellent astronomers, and from their observations they developed an extraordinarily precise calendar.

MUSEUMS

Although the Yucatan Peninsula has an exceptional historical legacy, only in recent years has there been a concerted effort to preserve that legacy in museums. The few that are available, however, are definitely worth seeing!

In Cancun, the Museo de Antropología e Historia on the south side of the Centro de Convenciónes in the Zona Hotelera (Hotel Zone) has pre-Columbian jewelry, skulls, and other interesting artifacts.

The Dzibilchaltun ruin site has a small museum with some fascinating items, including large statues of ball court players. And Chichen Itza has some fascinating artifacts in its small museum.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Playa del Carmen and the rest of the Riviera Maya is one big international happy camp! Besides water sports, you can go horseback riding, camping, backpacking, jogging or skydiving. You can play tennis, volleyball or basketball, shoot pool, go to a movie, go to the gym, take classes in aerobics or yoga, get a masssage, go to museums, take day-trips to archeological sites or take helicopter or small aerial plane tours. You can even explore zoos, caves, eco-parks, and visit the world's largest aviary and see their cageless habitats. Whew ... see

what we mean about there being plenty to do!?!

Discover the Fiesta Brava Bullfights in nearby Cancun. Every Wednesday, Caribbean Coast Travel takes groups to this great event, featuring a fantastic show with horses, singers, mariachi bands, folkloric dancers and a lot of entertainment. At the end of the show, a real bull and Matador perform the traditional sorrow!

Take a Caribbean Carnival Dinner Cruise to Isla Mujeres, complete with open bar, live music,an excellent buffet dinner, a night full of games, contests, and a show featuring music and dances of Caribbean islands and South America countries.

Enjoy a Lobster Cruise aboard an authentic Spanish galleon. The cruise features a spectacular pirate show, sumptuous lobster or steak buffet, surrounded by pirates, sword fights, exciting music and a romantic atmosphere.

Dining and dancing in Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya is an experience in itself. Every kind of ethnic food can be found, from Tex-Mex to Thai, from Swedish to Chinese, Vegetarian to Cajun, and more, as well as Mexican fare. Night life is casual, but cosmopolitan. You can choose from beach clubs, biergardens, both American and British style sports bars, and night clubs with live music ranging from jazz to blues to Latin and Caribbean. You'll also find "after-hour" clubs in Playa.

CLIMATE

Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya, like all of the Mexican Caribbean coast, have a sub-tropical climate. The average annual temperature is 78° Fahrenheit, and the humidity averages 80%. The ocean is always deliciously warm, and the silky soft sand never gets hot enough to burn your feet.

A hat or cap is essential, and sunscreen is highly recommended.

February and March are filled with mild days, an occasional shower, and lots and lots of flowers everywhere! Nights are cooler, but not enough to need a sweater. June through August is hot, and doesn't cool down at night. It's also when the sea is the calmest. Showers, when they occur, are brief. September and October are the tropical storm season. Warm and sunny days are mixed with rainy and windy days, and occasionally there are hurricanes. November through January finds very comfortable days, with nights cool enough to need a light jacket, shawl or sweater.

Most of the year shorts and a T-shirt/top or a dress will be fine. It's best to stick to natural fibers like cotton and linen. You definitely don't want to wear nylon or polyester! A light rain jacket or poncho is a good idea all year around, because showers can come anytime. Here are some tables that will give you an idea of the weather:

Average Temperature

Average High Temperature

Average Low Temperature

TRANSPORTATION

Cancun International Airport is the easiest airport to fly into to reach Playa del Carmen and surrounding areas. There is an airport in Cozumel, but to get to Playa del Carmen and the rest of the Riviera Maya you'll need to take a taxi to the ferry dock, then a ferry to Playa del Carmen. From Playa to Cozumel and other nearby islands there are two passenger ferries (one a hydrofoil) and a car ferry.

From Cancun International there are airport transfer services, shuttles to many hotels, car rentals, buses to Playa del Carmen, and taxis. Taxi fare from the airport to Playa or elsewhere on the Riviera Maya is approximately $5 pesos per kilometer, or $300 pesos an hour. Be sure to negotiate the price before you get in the taxi. If you're

taking a bus from the airport to Playa del Carmen, take a first-class directo. It's an express, and very comfortable and reasonable. From Playa you can get buses to most anywhere else along the Riviera Maya.

Dozens of cruise lines go to Cancun and Cozumel, and stop at numerous ports along the Riviera Maya including Playa del Carmen. Playa has a small airport that offers mostly trips to Chichen Itza and other Mayan ruins, and Guatamala and Belize.

Getting to the numerous sights in and around Playa del Carmen couldn't be easier. Not only are cars, jeeps and ATVs for rent, but also bicycles and scooters. Many of the attractions offer tour buses, and local buses are available. If you don't want to follow a schedule, you can take a taxi, or the more economical colectivos (white vans) can be flagged down and will stop anywhere you ask them to.

If you're driving, you'll find a four-lane highway to Cancun, and two-lane highways to many other places. Of course, if you're more adventurous, there are plenty of dirt roads to explore! Playa del Carmen has several gas stations, and gasoline runs around 5 to 6 pesos a liter (roughly $2 - $2.50 USD a gallon).

ACCOMMODATIONS

You'll find something to match any taste and every pocketbook. From condominiums and luxurious villas available by the week or month to hostels with dorms or single rooms, from all-inclusive five-star hotels to sand-floored cabañas overlooking secluded beaches, there is something for everyone.

There is also a great selection of Bed-and-Breakfast inns, time-shares and private homes for rent, with prices varying greatly. There are even RV parks and campgrounds. All B&B's, hotels, and hostels have bilingual telephone operators and round-the-clock security.

The Riviera Maya has three main "seasons." Spring and fall are the most economical times, with hotel rates ranging from $35 USD a night to $200 USD. Summer and winter are higher (and busier), and hotel rates will generally run around $65 USD to $350 USD. The week before or after Christmas, expect to pay a little more, and make reservations well in advance. Most hotels also offer shuttle service to and from the airport, and for cruise ships

HEALTH FACILITIES

You'll probably have too much fun to get sick, but just in case, Playa del Carmen has two hospitals, several clinics, and a Hyperbaric Chamber. You can also find excellant doctors there, including one who makes house calls 24 hours a day. There is also both air and land ambulance service. Usually all insurance is accepted. If you have a health condition requiring oxygen, you can only purchase tanks in Cancun; they run around $35 USD each for any size.

ASSISTANCE

The State Tourism Office Information Center (Secretaria de Turismo, Centro de Informacion) is located at 22 Tulum Avenue in downtown Cancun, and is open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. The Consumer Protection Agency (Procuraduria del Consumidor) is at 10 Coba Avenue, also in downtown Cancun, and is open Monday-Friday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.

If you need help extending your Nonimmigrant Visa, applying for an Immigrant Visa, importation of household goods, a marriage license, or with other legal matters, contact either of the following U. S. Consular Agencies: Segundo Nivel No. 320-323, Plaza Caracol Dos, Blvd. Kukulkan, Zona Hotelera, in Cancun, Quintana Roo; or Offices 8 & 9, 2nd Floor, Villa Mar Mall inside Juarez Park between Melgar and 5th Avenue, Cozumel, Q. R. The main American Consulate office is at Paseo de Montejo No. 453 por Avenida Colón in Merida, Yucatan.

If you are considering relocating to the Mayan Riviera area, there is an excellant booklet titled "Relocating to Mexico" published by the American Chamber of Commerce of Mexico, A.C., an independent, non-profit organization.

LIFESTYLE

Just about anything goes here! Everything is very casual and laid-back, and it's a very friendly place. Although Playa del Carmen is a very rapidly-growing area, it still retains its small town atmosphere.

Most anything you need is within walking distance in Playa, including laundromats, hair salons, hardware stores, health stores, Karate studios and gyms...even tattoo parlors.

Dress is casual and comfortable, but you can go a little dressier in the evening, if you like. On the beach the farther north of the ferry dock you get, the less clothing you'll see. Topless women can be seen here and there, but not so much on weekends when Mexican families are generally on the beach.

It's not unusual to see beach towels double as sarongs, and you'll see fashions from all over the world. There are quite a few really secluded beaches, often called "private." Mexican law says all beaches are public property, but privacy is generally respected. And you can't get much more private than a cabaña right on a hidden beach!

CLUBS AND ORGANIZATIONS

So you can meet other expatriates, in Playa del Carmen you'll find the International Friendship Club, Rotary International, and the American Society, which acts as an umbrella organization for smaller clubs and associations based on particular fields of interest.

COST OF LIVING

As with resorts world-wide, the cost of living in Playa del Carmen is higher than in other less tourist-oriented areas of Mexico. By U.S. standards, however, costs are still very reasonable, and considerably less than in larger resort cities like Cancun.

There are a few haute cuisine restaurants if you want them, but you can generally eat for around 30-200 pesos, and a beer will run you 10-30 pesos. You can eat for even less off the main drag.

Postage runs slightly higher than in the U.S., and tipping is usually 10-15%. Activities may cost from $15 USD to $200 USD, and day trips start at $99 USD. Entrance to Dolphin Discovery Marine Park is only $10 USD.

BUYING OR RENTING REAL ESTATE

Rental prices vary greatly. Houses may be rented for as little as $750 USD per month in the low season (spring and fall). Luxurious spa condos for six people may rent for $1,800 USD per week in the high (or peak) season. A villa overlooking the beach may rent for $3,000 USD and up per week. The majority of these are air-conditioned, and furnished with small appliances (microwaves, blenders, VCRs, etc.) and all linens, as well as cable TV. A few have ceiling fans installed instead of AC.

If you are looking to buy, you may find houses for sale for as low as $80,000 USD and up to $700,000 USD, depending on the location. Property taxes average around $40 USD per year. Condominiums can run from $79,000 USD on up to $600,000 USD. A beach-front villa will usually sell for $1,000,000 USD and upwards. These are all very nice houses, with landscaped yards, private drives, and often secure gates. The more expensive ones will have air conditioning, the more modest ones come with ceiling fans. Most include cable or satellite TVs.

If you prefer to build, lots run a low as $40 USD per square meter, or $70 USD per square meter for beachfront. Beachfront lots of half an acre run around $50,000 USD to $80,000. If you buy a larger tract, beachfront lots may cost as little as $15,000 USD per half-acre. There are some eco-subdivisions going up with lots full of mango and lime trees on them selling for as low as $50 USD per square meter. Solar installations are readily available, if you are environmentally conscious.